Whenever compiling a ranking of London’s finest restaurants, one might anticipate well-known high-end establishments. But, situated prominently among these food heavyweights is a simple salonu located in a distant corner of northern London.
This small Turkish restaurant, focusing in the culinary delights of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been declared the 4th finest restaurant in the capital by a prominent food magazine. This recognition has made the proprietors utterly shocked.
“I am utterly surprised,” says a family member, pointing to his family’s hard graft that culminated in their humble place earning such a lofty ranking on a respected 99-strong list.
The compact space, which was a basic cafe before its transformation into a buzzing destination, has kept much of its original charm. It fits just more than 20 people and, aside from the vibrant live cooking show, the layout remains essentially unchanged. “It is a small and stocky space,” comments the owner.
In the end, it’s all down to the fare, and this restaurant more than delivers. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a straightforward joy. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to maintain a succulent consistency.
It is then added into a sizeable pan with spices and oil, which are mixed in slowly. As the flavourful mixture bubbles up, homemade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is slapped on top to take in all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley are placed before the flavourful meat is rolled neatly inside.
The wrap is usually enjoyed with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a powerful burst of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, punchy onions and rich, paprika-red oil tying it all in harmony.
Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The respected food critic labelled this dish “one of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.
When it comes to sweets, the eatery’s künefe proves a delight. It is doused in lighter syrup than found elsewhere, imparting it a more intense, more aromatic and less sickly profile.
Interestingly, this unassuming spot has ranked above several illustrious three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself near the top of the list, trailing other high-profile dining destinations.
Whereas two people could easily leave this place full for below £25, equivalent meals at luxury establishments can run into significantly more than that price.
The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants featured and is located well beyond the city’s central zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an expensive city. It is assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and finest food but I do not subscribe to that,” says the owner.
“In my view what is crucial is hospitality, kindness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”
The view is shared by the list’s curator, who suggested that if he was in a role of authority, he would “require to have every chef in London train at this restaurant as a final lesson, to show them the dangers of overcomplication, and to show what is achievable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their utmost best”.
Unlike most chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food didn’t work at fancy restaurants. “I feel very happy of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.
Numerous restaurants require years to establish themselves, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its acclaim is thanks to tireless, seven-day weeks of effort.
“Our mum used to be really tired. She would source produce in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. All of it is prepared manually; she would do all of this. She is a single mum and she managed a social life but her friends would come here to help her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. All of these duties made her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he shares.
This restaurant’s success is bound to resonate outside its own premises. “I believe a lot of people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” notes the owner, highlighting the broader importance of this gastronomic honour.
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